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Sew-along

For all sew alongs, tutorials, including those from books as well as my own patterns

Sew-along

Poll – Sew-Along for February

February 6, 2014

 

I will be sewing some back to school items this month, even though school has already started for a month ;P I just didn’t have time to do so in December, but I guess it’s better late than never?

So since I will be sewing anyway, I thought I might as well use one of the projects as my sew-along for the month. I couldn’t decide which one so please vote in the poll below to help me decide!

Option 1 : Simple bill fold wallet with 1 ID slot, I card slot and 1 coin compartment. This is a small wallet, with only a few compartments because that is all a primary school student needs. Β For more pictures, click here

FEBsewalong

Option 2 : Lesson bag – I will be using the Nyan cat fabric to make this shaped tote. You can follow along even if you don’t have the fabric, as the steps are pretty similar to a standard lesson bag tote.

FEBsewalong (1)

Option 3 : Drawstring bag for ballet shoes.

 

Tell me what you want to see in the next Sew-Along. Go ahead and vote now! πŸ™‚

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Girls Qi Pao / Chinese Dress sew-along Pattern variation

January 31, 2014

I have been seeing lots of YOUR creations on myΒ Facebook pageΒ and I can tell you it’s been wonderful seeing them. Β Now it’s my turn to show you mine. First of all, I said I was going to sew on Chinese brocade, and I did. I made one dress but I was not happy with it. Firstly, it was hard to sew with, even though I made sure I used the correct needle. The fabric is polyester and frays like crazy, and the binding didn’t catch properly at certain points. Which is probably the reason why they use such thick binding/piping in the mass produced ones. The fabric also puckered along straight seams and I just didn’t have time or patience to try it out on dress number two. So I fell back on my favourite fabric, the same that I made the first dress from. But this time I made a variation to the pattern. I chopped off the pattern at the waistline, and added a flare skirt.

qipao2

Instead of a front opening, I decided to sew the front panels fixed in place, and used a concealed/invisible zip on the back.

qipao1

I stitched in the ditch at the edge of the bias and the fabric, to secure the front panel in place.

qipao3

This is what it looks like from the inside, the inner flap doesn’t have to be so wide/deep now that it is going to be stitched in place, but I was too lazy to cut it off after sewing.

qipao4

 

To make this variation, following the following steps.

  1. For the back pattern piece, instead of cutting on fold, I added a one cm seam allowance to the centre back line. This gave me the extra allowance to fit a zip in. I then measured the waist position on my daughter using the back neck point as a reference, and marked it on the back bodice piece. Remember to add one cm seal allowance to the waist line for attaching the skirt.
  2. For the front bodice, just match the waistline mark with the back piece, making sure the pattern is aligned at the underarm seams.
  3. Cut out the pieces andΒ sew the top bodice as usual.
  4. Combine the two front pieces by laying flat and sewing the top outer flap onto the inner flap, following the curved edge of the bias. Stitch in the ditch.
  5. Measure the width of the front bodice where you cut off at the waist, mine was forty cm. Multiply that figure by two, and cut out a piece of fabric in that width. For the length of the skirt, it is up to you. Mine was eighty cm wide by fifty cm long.
  6. Do the same for the back bodice to determine the width of the back skirt panels.
  7. Sew the side seams of the skirt, make gathers and attach to top bodice.
  8. Attach the concealed/zipper starting from the back neck point down past the waist line, stopping approximately ten cm below the waistline. The actual end point is up to you since it depends on what size you are making.
  9. Finish up the back seam and hem, sew on decorative buttons. And you are done.

P.S. Note how I had to spell out all the dimensions? The entire row of numbers on my mac keyboard is not working. :/

Anyway, here are some pictures of my brocade version if you are interested. It still looks pretty good in pictures… lol…

qipao5

qipao6

qipao7

qipao8

Off to go visiting today. Happy Chinese New Year to those of you who are celebrating it. Have a good weekend πŸ˜€

 

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Girls Qi Pao (Chinese Dress) Sew Along Day 3

January 16, 2014

Today we are going to tackle the side zipper opening of the dress. This took me a few experiments to figure it out. I am not even sure if this is the correct way to do it but it works! πŸ™‚ So here goes….

What we did yesterday…
1. Cut out fabric.
2. Preparation work – iron on interfacing for collar lining, serge edges
3. Sew shoulder seams, open seam allowances flat (sewing video)
4. Attaching the collar piecesΒ (sewing video)
5. Finish raw edges of bodice+ collar, armholes, hemlines with biasΒ (sewing video)

How to make (continued)
6.Attaching the zip to the side opening.
7. Sew the inner flap to the back bodice, and the side seam below the zip opening.
8. Sew up the other side seam of the dress.
9. Hand stitch to tuck in top of zip and neaten up side seams.
10. Add decorative frog/chinese knot buttons across the collar and to keep the front bodice attached to the front inner flap in place.


and here’s part 2 of the sewing video. If your connection permits, I highly recommend watching the video in 720HD – the explanatory text is a lot clearer.


For those of you who prefer pictures, I have extracted some screenshots of the key steps for today’s sew-along Β so you can refer to these if it is easier to view pictures compared to video.

day3_1_alignside

Align side seams where zip is going to be, with fabrics’ right sides together, sew a long basting stitch to temporary hold the back and front bodice together.

day3_2_bastezip

Open up the seam flat, and place the concealed zip (right sides down) onto the opened seam. Align the top of the zip to the bias binding.
Hand baste the zip down on both sides of the seam allowances.

day3_3_unbaste

Once the zip is basted, you can remove the first long basting stitch that was holding the front and back pieces together.

day3_sewzip

Sew the two sides of the zip to the front and back bodice respectively.

day3_5_markzipstop

Now to sew the inner flap. First, align the inner flap from the armholes, right side facing back bodice. Mark on the wrong side of the inner flap, the position of the zip stop.

day3_6_sewtobluemark

Sew with a 1cm allowance, from the top edge down to the point marked blue. Make sure your stitch line lies to the left of the zip teeth so that it hides the top of the zip behind the seam.

day3_7_sewbelowbluemark

To secure the bottom half of the flap, change to a regular zipper foot, and sew as close to the zip teeth as possible. This time, you have to sew to the right of the zip teeth so the zip is not obstructed.

day3_8_zipdetails

day3_9_alignotherside

For the other side, just align from armhole to hem, pin in place and sew with a 1cm seam allowance.

day3_10_topofziptuck

Time to put some finishing touches. first, tuck in the top of the zip by folding it over the bias and then folding back . Hand stitch to keep it in place.

day3_11_sideseams

To prevent the side seams from sticking out, open them up and sew them down to the other side of the bias.

final_500

Sew on the decorative buttons, sew on the metal snap fasteners in the gaps Β between the decorative buttons, and you’re done!

If you made this dress, do post it on my facebook page for all of us to see! I will be sewing two of these in Chinese brocade fabric over the weekend. Will post the pictures up when they are done. Hope you liked my sew-along and keep those suggestions coming for the next one!

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Girls Qi Pao (Chinese Dress) Sew Along Day 2

January 16, 2014

Now, let’s get started!Β This is what we are going to be doing today. The sewing was mainly documented in video form and I did not have enough time to take screenshots so most of the sewing process will be in the form of a video tutorial.

How to make
1. Cut out fabric.
2. Preparation work – iron on interfacing for collar lining, serge edges
3. Sew shoulder seams, open seam allowances flat (sewing video)
4. Attaching the collar piecesΒ (sewing video)
5. Finish raw edges of bodice+ collar, armholes, hemlines with biasΒ (sewing video)


1. Cut out pieces on fabric
As mentioned yesterday, it will be a good idea to make the first piece in a cheap fabric, just to test for fit and make any adjustments.

Following the directions on each pattern piece, layout the patterns on your fabric, and transfer the outlines using chalk/fabric markers.

These are the pieces you should have after cutting out the fabric. I have used different color fabrics for all the pieces in this tutorial, so that while I am taking close up pictures, you can still identify the individual parts of the dress without getting confused.

pattern_collars
pattern_front

pattern_back

Do take note for the orientation of the two front pieces. If you cut the front piece by placing the pattern piece on the wrong side of the fabric, the curved edge will be on the left side of the dress. (from front centre down to left side seam). If you do that, make sure you do the same for the front inner flap, i.e. to trace and cut out on the wrong side of the fabric, and you will get two pieces that match each other.

If you wish the curve to be on the right side of the dress (running from centre front to right side seam), then mark on the right side of the fabric. Do the same for the front inner flap. Β This was how I cut my fabric. I placed my pattern pieces on the right side of the fabric and this is the orientation of my pieces (right side up)

patternorientation

You are seeing it on the monitor and hence it is a mirror image. Imagine if you turn the dress around and put it on, and you will see that the front curve runs from the centre front down to the right side seam.

2. Preparation work

– apply fusible interfacing on collar lining piece.

pattern_collars_interfacing

– serge shoulder seam and side seams (see diagram below for edges to serge

prep_sergediagram

 

For steps 3-5, please watch the video below. As mentioned earlier, I did not have time to extract the screenshots for a step by step photographs tutorial. So I hope it’s not a problem viewing on youtube for most of you. I do find video tutorials more useful and less words are needed for explaining the process, so I hope you will enjoy them too.

Tomorrow we will finish up with the side zip opening, side seams, and the decorative buttons down the main bodice curved opening. Before we move on to that, it will be a good idea to test the fit on your little girl (if it’s not meant to be a surprise :P). You can make some adjustments to the armholes/waist/length if you prefer the dress to be more fitting. I will leave it to your discretion.

See you back here tomorrow for Day 3 of the sew along!

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Girls Qi Pao (Chinese Dress) Sew Along Day 1

January 14, 2014

Welcome to Sew Along Day 1 of the Girls Qi Pao (Chinese Dress). Today we will download and assemble the pattern and get our materials ready.

1. First, please choose your size and download the corresponding PDF file.Β 

sizechart_rev

Please download from my PDF pattern shop – PorcupinePatterns.com. both sizes are included in a single file.

If you need other sizes, there is a paid version available for sizes 2-12 on my store as well. The paid version has both A-line and Straight styles, with sleeveless, short sleeve and cap sleeve options. Click here for to view the details.

2. Print the patterns on A4 paper, remember to set your paper size on your printer settings to A4.

3. Layout the printed pieces based on the layout diagrams below.Β 

Size 110
Assembly layout as below (click on image to zoom in)

110LAYOUT_500

 

Size 134
Assembly layout as below (click on image to zoom in)

134LAYOUT_500

4. Align the printed sheets
Match corresponding page numbers and align the arrows so that the vertical and horizontal dotted lines meet up (see diagram below)

howtoassemblePDF

5. Tape or glue the pieces together.
What I usually do is to cut along the pink dotted line on the left piece (page 6 in the example above), apply glue to the left of the pink dotted line on right piece (page 7 in example above), and stick page 6 over page 7, aligning the arrows and dotted lines. Β But it is up to you how you want to assemble the pieces. Β If you need more help with this let me know.

6. Cut out the pattern pieces
All the pattern pieces already include seam allowances, so once you have assembled the PDF pattern, cut out the pattern pieces.
You should have the following pieces.
1 x Front
1 x Back
1 x Front inner flap
1 x Collar

patternpieces

Now that we have all the pattern pieces, let’s get our materials ready

Materials
(in order of sizes 110 /134)

1. Outer Fabric (based on 90cm wide fabric – 1.3mΒ  / 1.5m
I will be using brocade for the actual dress, which is 90cm wide, so these quantities are based on a 90cm wide fabric
optional – If you want to make the collar lining in a contrasting fabric, you just need a piece of 35cm x 10cm piece of co-ordinating fabric

2. Fusible Interfacing Β 35 x 10cm

3. Bias tape – can be ready made or self-made.
I am using single fold bias tape in my tutorial which is 12mm (approx. Β 1/2″) wide – 2.7m/3.2m
If you are making your own using co-ordinating fabric, cut the fabric cross grain 24mm or 1″ wide. The final width of the binding will be 6mm or 1/4″ respectively.

4. Frog buttons / Chinese knot buttons
You should be able to get these easily online or hopefully even in your local sewing stores. If not you can always make your own! There are a variety of different knot buttons, some are really simple to make and there are couple of tutorials online that you can follow to make your own.

5. Sew on metal snap buttons 7mm – 3 setsΒ 

6. Concealed ZipΒ – 20cm(8″) / 25cm(10″)

Getting the patterns ready was tedious work! If you spot any mistakes, be sure to let me know. πŸ™‚

Tomorrow, we will start sewing!

Click here for Sew-Along Day 2