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nani IRO 2018

Finished Projects Japanese Fabrics

nani IRO 2018 – Sewing with nani IRO Linen

March 27, 2018

As part of nani IRO month, it goes without saying that I need to make something out of the new collection as well! Last year I explored sewing with nani IRO cotton sateen, and this year, I decided to make something out of the very same fabric we are giving away, which hopefully will make you want to take part in our awesome one-bolt fabric + book giveaway!

The fabric I used is a thin linen in the most popular blue colorway from the Ripple or is it Pippre series. This is what the fabric looks like. The fabric in the picture is hung with the lengthwise grain vertical, so the selvedges are vertical as well.

rippleB

But I really wanted to make the bottom border into a skirt, and I also wanted to make a more structured dress compared to what you would normally see. Most of the linen pieces in the book are baggy and even though it would be really comfy to wear, I really wanted to try something else. So I just went ahead with what was in my head, and here is the result! 🙂

naniirodressfront1

As expected, the bottom border for the skirt is really amazing. It’s really like wearing a piece of abstract art! The top of the dress was actually a more rounded neck, but I amended it to a  boat neck so that I could show more of the horizontal stripe.

naniirorippledress

And this is how it looked on me! The skirt is an inverted box pleat skirt because I felt that using gathers will make it too poofy.

naniirorippledress_back

Here’s the back view. Remember that this linen is rather sheer so the dress is fully lined with white lawn.

But I had about 1m left of scraps. So I wanted to make something casual too, for daily wear. I was really in love with the linen by this time because it is so cool to wear for our super hot weather. So with the remnants, I managed to cut out a tank top! And because I wanted to feature both borders, and also max out the use of the fabric, I decided on an asymmetrical tank with a longer back piece featuring the bright blue border.

This piece is not lined, as the dark blue print in the front ensured it wasn’t see-through. But I did use lawn to face the neckline and armholes as I wanted a clean finish around them. This was a really quick and easy project and now I really want to get more nani IRO linen because I wore this the whole Sunday and it was so comfortable and cool to wear.

naniirorippletankfront

Here’s the back view. You will notice that linen crumples. Yes But that is part of the relaxed linen look. Which then brings me to another point. I didn’t iron the pieces after washing them. I just wore them as it is and I think not having to iron is a major bonus for me! 🙂

naniirorippletankback

Some of you may be afraid of sewing with linen because it is usually more expensive and seems like it will shrink alot. This is actually not my first time sewing with linen, but the previous times I used thicker ones. This thin linen from nani IRO was actually very easy to handle. In fact it feels a little like a mix of cotton and paper. The slight stiffness is due to the natural fibres of hemp. You may also wonder, if it will shrink alot since most people think that anything cotton/natural fibres will shrink like crazy.

So I did a shrink test.

 

So the first picture is the before…
linenshrinktestbefore

Before
2 pieces of 10cm square pieces of thin linen were added to the wash. Cold wash (approximately 25-30 degrees in our weather). The top piece was sun-dried and the bottom piece (with blue streak) was put in the dryer on my regular cycle.

linenshrinktestafter

after

Sorry for flipping the pieces when I took the after photo. The blue streak piece is now above, that’s the one that went into the dryer. I had to tape down the edges with washi tape to keep it flat because they were a little wrinkly. Notice that there was no shrinkage along the lengthwise grain at all! However, there was a 6-7% shrinkage on the cross grain.

Obviously there is not much difference between being dried in the dryer (which is way hotter) than on the line. I said sun-dry but because I live in an apartment it was more like sun/wind-dried in the shade. It dried really quickly though, because it’s thin and rather loose weave. So it’s not as dramatic a shrinkage as some might say, but you should definitely pre-wash the fabric before cutting to avoid any surprises.

If you love that relaxed/free-spirit look, as well as the class Japanese/Muji look. You will love sewing with, and wearing linen. I am hooked and want more.

gracelinen

Love this grungy look!

And so that’s the end of my sewing with nani IRO linen report! I hope this was useful to you. And yes I know I promised to post the translation request last week but I got distracted by the fabric arrival and had to start sewing immediately! The translation is almost done, short of one small diagram. And will be up later this week.

Japanese Fabrics

nani IRO 2018 collection- Part 2

March 17, 2018

Following up from Part 1 of nani IRO 2018 collection… we continue looking at the new designs that nani IRO has to offer.

Situation

A brand new design for the 2018 collection. Check out the original artwork (see original post by Naomi Ito from Instagram) that was transformed into fabric. Can you see the blue highlights on the original image that have been translated into highlights on the different colorways?

situation

This design comes in a few subtrates and colorways. First up is the thin linen in unbleached and brown base.

situationthinlinen

You can see the first colorway in action in the book – Coat Q

situationcoat

The same design in double gauze, a blue and light brown, almost a champagne gold color?

situationdoublegauze

And also, cotton sateen. I think this design is stunning in cotton sateen. Look at the sheen on the fabric! I am particularly taken to the light blue version. From far you can’t really see the artwork but the details upon close up are really gorgeous.

situationcottonsateen

Camino

If you think this looks like Saaa Saaa from previous year’s collection, then I beg to differ. I would think of Saaa Saaa as a regular width stripe fabric, but Camino more like a pin-stripe fabric. Both are made up of irregular lines. But where Saaa Saaa is a two tone design made up of single color pen sketched lines on a single color background, Camino has an added 3D effect with random black shadings, which kind of makes the lines pop. I actually thought the blue double gauze was embossed with metallic embellishments till I saw the close up picture.

caminodg

It is actually white strokes (looks like chalk?) and some irregular black lines for added shading. The varying strengths of the black strokes is what gives the fabric such an interesting look.

and look at it on this dress below, it does look shiny isn’t it? I think this will be an awesome fabric for a Men’s shirt. or a pair of ladies relax pants.

caminodgdress

Camino comes in sheer linen too. You can’t really see from these picture, but the linen is quite thin and drapier than regular linen. If you shine a light through it you can see through it. But thanks to the darker colors, it is not actually sheer like transparent type of sheer if you know what I mean.

caminosheerlinen

You can see the linen used in the shirt P below.

caminoshirt

Formen

I must say that this design was one of my favourites when I first looked through the new collection. From far, it is simple and there are no bold shapes standing out, but the details are amazing. It kind of looks like some kind of intricate road map The first two colors – the peach and the black are double gauze.

formendoublegauze

while the other two colors – which look like silver and gold, are made of a heavier mix of material in a herringbone weave, which is a V shape weaving pattern. You would probably have seen this in twill or even some men’s shirts fabrics. It is not the first time this type of weave has appeared in the nani IRO textile range, for example, in the nani IRO reversible tote bag tutorial I posted 5 years ago, I used a canvas from the Nani Iro 2013 collection called pencil in white and aqua.

herringbone

This particular fabric feels heavier than the canvas that I had. According to the official website, it is a mix of 55% hemp and 45% cotton. So I believe its more suitable for outerwear. Or maybe structured pants/skirts or even bags. The silver colorway is stunning, and there is even a video of the fabric being rolled out on Naomi Ito’s Instagram which captured the sheen of the fabric perfectly.

formentcottonlinenherringbone

This fabric was used for the long coat in the R – and in the description it is stated as a thick material suitable for Fall and Winter.

formencoat

Fuccra

On the website, this was listed under the basic range instead of new designs. However, although it bears the same name and motifs as Fuccra Rakuen, the repeated patterns are a new arrangement and I wanted to rave about the Jacquard weave.

fuccrajacquard

Jacquard weaves are textured weaves which means you can feel the texture of the motifs and it adds a level of luxe to your garment. This is a 100% cotton jacquard weave and is woven in 西脇 Nishiwaki, which is famous for their long history in Banshu-ori – the production of cotton textiles by dyeing, weaving and finishing in one continuous production cycle. I think the black colorway would be stunning for a nice formal jacket.

fuccracoat

The grey colorway was featured in the book as a coat as well.

Part 3 (probably on Monday) –  I will go into the new releases of previous designs, some in new colorways, some in new substrates – such as quilted/laminated versions.  See you then!

Remember to take part in the giveaway going on my Instagram now – Giveaway post on Instagram

All images from http://naniiro.jp/ and the book – Atelier to nani IRO’s sewing closet