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Book Flip Through Review – Pouch Making Classroom

January 11, 2019

Happy 2019! A little late into the year but I must confess I have been taking a nice relaxing time off. I took 2 weeks off in December, and when I came back everything was a mess at home and there was so much laundry to catch up. It is also a few weeks more the Chinese New Year which means more frantic sewing trying to get everyone’s new clothes ready. Anyway, I really wanted to review this book because I think this is one of the more useful Pouch making books I have bought so far. I realize the cover is not that attractive, and maybe many of you might skip it while browsing through online shops. But I saw the sneak preview and one of the set of instructions on the different ways to deal with zip ends caught my attention. So I just had to buy it to take a look. And then there was a pouch with 3 compartments that I’ve always wanted to know how to make, and it’s in there too!
cover

You know a book is really useful if the first thing you do when you buy it is not to make 1, but 2 pouches using the patterns 😛 This book is published by Nihon-Vogue and there are 35 different projects you can make. The lessons include how to install zippers (adjusting length / end of zips / sewing), attaching lining to your pouches, attaching different types of interfacing, sewing with special materials, and how to attach metal purse frames. With this book you can literally make any pouch you want!

This was the first one – a little cosmetic case with elastic pockets inside for small items like eyeshadows or tweezers..

pandapouch

and the second pouch I made was this – This is actually a twin pouch sewn together, and the section in between the two pouches makes a 3rd compartment. It’s really useful for sorting things out and even my daughter has asked for one for her school devices!

echinopouch2

Note how it looks like adifferent print from different angles? This is the metallic Kokka Echino Canvas from Nekoneko.co and it has a large scale abstract print, so depending on how you cut the fabric, you get a different look everytime!

echinopouch

And here’s the book flip-through video, you can find lots of other pouch designs in the video.

The lessons are very clear and easy to follow, so I would really recommend this book even though the cover looks rather plain! I hope you like it and make lots of useful pouches out of it!

Tanoshiku Manaberu! Porch No Kyoshitsu / VOGUE Japan

Title :ポーチの教室  (Pouch Making Classroom)
Publisher : Nihon Vogue
ISBN No. :978-4529058438

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Book Flip Through Videos Book Reviews

Book Flip Through Review – Coat Sewing

December 10, 2018

cover

Today’s book review will take on a different format, one that I hope will allow me to post more book reviews quicker and faster! So what’s the difference? I noticed that ever since I started posting book flip through videos, the photos became quite redundant. So I’m going to just post the videos on various channels, and then summarise my thoughts about this book in my blog. I hope that this will speed things up a lot more because I have so many books sitting on my desk waiting to be reviewed I fear I will never catch up with them all!

Today’s book review is about this book on Sewing Coats. Don’t ask me why I bought it, but I have a strange obsession with coats. I really wish I could wear them more often but it’s so hot here in Singapore, even in December. But never mind, I bought the book anyway because I’m really interested to know how to make one!

So here’s the book flip through video, and I’ll share my thoughts about the book below!

There are 18 different coats you can make from this book, and the main categories are the pattern styles – there is the Drop Shoulder / Raglan Sleeve / Tailer Collar coat, Set in Sleeve as well as the Kimono sleeves. Each of the 18 coats are a variation of one of these main pattern types. The patterns are for Ladies size S-LL.

Based on these 5 different basic templates, are 18 different arrangements you can make. Detailed step by step lesson are provided for the Tailored coat which is fully interfaced and lined. I believe it is the most complicated of them all so there are lots of techniques that you can refer to from here.

There are also detailed step by step photos you need for making different types of pockets – namely, Patch pockets, Seam pockets (side pockets), Welt pockets, Box pockets (direct translation from Japanese but I think these are single welt pockets/ broad welt side pockets).

With these detailed instructions, you can make up any kind of coat, even mix and match your own styles from trench coat to duffle coat, to the simple collarless style which I love so much.

So if you love coats and especially if you actually need one this winter (or even the next), why not make one of your own? I think this book provides really clear instructions and not much translation seems to be needed. In fact, the rating on this book on Amazon was 4.6 stars, and most of them said that the instructions were easy to understand.

Coat wo Nuo. Sorosoro Chosen, Totteoki no Icchaku step up sewing / Katayama Yuko

Title : コートを縫おう (Coats Sewing)
Author : かたやま ゆうこ (Katayama Yuko)
ISBN No. : 978-4391151497

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Book Flip Through Videos Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Books

Book Review – Shapes you can wear – Katachinofuku

October 26, 2018

Today’s book review is for a book that is not very new, but one I have bought for quite some time simply out of curiosity 😂. I did actually want to try it though, and I did!

cover

The pattern designer is Asuka Hamada, author of Piece Work. Her style is very quirky and usually not tight fitting, but I like them because they look modern and fun and very stylish, I just wasn’t sure if it would suit me. But anyway, it was the top on the cover that made me buy the book (as usual), since I buy all my books online. It is a round shape, sewn up leaving two holes for the arms and one for the head. Looks easy!

The title of the book is called Katachi no fuku – where katachi 形 means shapes, and fuku means clothes. So I loosely translate it to Shapes you can wear! Sounds more fun isn’t it? Patterns include – tops/tunics/dresses/poncho/handbag/bags/skirts.

Let’s have a look at some of the more interesting pieces, and then to the book flip-through video.
roundpattern

The first one is similar to the one on the cover, and it is literally called 丸 (maru) which means round/circular/ball shape.

roundpatternworn

Doesn’t look that bad when worn as a tunic! I tink this is some kind of heavy wool so it looks extra cushy and comfy for winter.

The next (below) is a rectangular shape – hole in the middle for the head and sides sewn up leaving armholes.

rectangle

Ok maybe the model makes everything look good, but I want to try this one too!

rectangleworn

Here’s another shape. Using a square, you can make a poncho. The sleeves look a bit restrictive in the first picture, but it drapes rather nicely in the last picture.

4cornerponcho

Q

and this is the one I made!  There are two versions, the top one – P is a dress length, and the bottom Q is a top length. I like how the bottom corners drape. The cutting of this is still more in line with a traditional top, just that everything is cut out of one piece instead of having to join the sleeves. It was a very quick sew!

banzai

and I made this too! But I can’t show you this because it was made out of test fabric and I did not finish the raw edges, it seemed to wide for me though, so I will have to adjust the width a bit.

As for the size info – well, there is none. The book did mention it is suitable for sizes S-L though, but there is one size only – free size! However, seeing that it is made up of really simple shapes, it should be quite easy to scale the patterns?

techniques

In the how-to-make section, there is a couple of pages on sewing techniques, which you will use for all the projects.

 diagrams

A close up of the sewing diagram.

patterns

1 full size pattern sheet, double sided, is attached.

back

There are lots of other projects in the book so without further ado, here is the book flip through video!

Katachi no Fuku / Asuka Hamada

Title : Katachi no fuku
Author : Asuka Hamada
ISBN : 9784579115174

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Book Review & Flip through video – Beautiful clothes for Ladies

July 16, 2018

Time for a long overdue book review! As I mentioned earlier, I was dealing with a big move the entire month of June. But guess what… that didn’t stop me from buying more books.

I had some cdJapan points expiring so you know, I felt compelled to shop and not let the points go to waste. I bought myself two ladies sewing books and an issue of Cotton Time. This  book is by Tatsuya Kaigai design. I didn’t buy the last book which was published in 2016, but based on the book reviews it seems pretty good, so I gave it a try. I also thought that the dress on the cover was super cute and perfect for some nani IRO petit pocho cotton sateen from the Beau Yin Yang series (edited to add : I checked the book for the fabric source and it is indeed nani IRO fabric :P)

There sre 25 projects to be made in this book, but note that out of the 25 some are just blouse -> dress variations, or even color/material variations. There is also one fully detailed step by step lesson for blouse 4, plus a section on sewing techniques for reference.

cover

Ok let’s take a look at some of my favourites in the book!

01raglansleeveribbonbacktie

The first is a raglan sleeve with back ribbon tie. The sleeves are also flared. This comes in both blouse and dress lengths, although the dress length seems like just an extension of the length with a loose waist tie.

03frontribbonpeplumblouse

This blouse is a button down blouse with front ties and a peplum. The book suggests to use soft fabrics and I think the slightly puffed sleeves look really nice too!

06shawlcollardress

I really like this dress even though it is really not something I would wear. It’s too ladylike for me ;P But the shawl collar is something I’ve never tried making/wearing before. There is another version of this dress but made in all black. 08frenchsleeveblackdress

Ok this I really really like. And I think it’s something that I’ll even wear! It’s a french sleeve black dress. French sleeve means that the “sleeves” are actually extended from the bodice and not attached separately. The skirt is made with tucks instead of gathers for a neat look, the ended of with a large ribbon tie on the front.

14backribbonblouse

A seemingly plain collared blouse from the front, but with a cute ribbon tie at the back. I’ve been seeing these back ribbon tie blouses from a couple of PDF pattern designers lately so I guess it must be trending?

16knitribbondress

Another of those oh this is so nice but I probably can’t pull it off dresses. Sigh…. I like the collar, the front pleats, the ribbon accents and the puff sleeves. But not so much the dress length. Maybe I could tweak this into a blouse? The fabric is really nice too, it’s from Liberty Japan (Sleeping Rose AE)  This is a made in Japan print so note that the width is standard 110cm instead of the Liberty UK fabrics.

24backgathercoat

I have no use for coats. Singapore is perpetually hot. But this is so pretty! Shown paired with the dress on the cover, this is a collarless coat with two pockets and a gathered back.

samplediagrams

There is a full step by step lesson for blouse 4 – which is a small collar blouse with a front ribbon tie.

sizechart

This is the size chart for the sizes included.

sampleinstructions

A sample of the instructions

samplediagrams2

Close up of the diagrams

patternsheets

2 large actual size double sided pattern sheets included.

And here’s the book flip through

Otona Wo Kirei Ni Miseru Fuku / VOGUE Japan

Title : 大人をきれいに見せる服
Translated title : Beautiful clothes for Ladies
Author : Tatsuya Kaigai 海外竜也
ISBN : 978-4529058018

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backcover

Book Flip Through Videos Book Reviews Japanese Fabrics Japanese Sewing Books

Atelier to nani IRO’s Sewing Closet – Book Review and Flip Through Video

March 1, 2018

It’s the time of the year again when the new collection for nani IRO fabrics ship. And this year there is another reason to be excited. After 10 years, she has finally released a new sewing pattern book! (You can read the review of the first book here. )

All the fabrics used in the book are from the new nani IRO 2018 collection. I will be going writing up on that once I get my hands on the fabric. And since we will be practically talking about nani IRO collection the whole month, I would like to declare this month of March 2018 – nani IRO month again!

naniIROmonth2018_sm

I first came up with this idea back in March 2013 where I dedicated the entire month to nani IRO related posts, and oh my has it been 5 years already??? What will I be doing for nani IRO month? First of all, this book review, followed by a post on the new collection this year, and finally my very own makes! I would also like to invite all of you to join in too, by posting any of your past or present nani IRO makes on IG with the hashtag #naniirogiveaway2018. There will be an awesome giveaway sponsored by our very generous fabric sponsor – Nekoneko.co! More about this over the next few days while I get the images and details ready.

In the meantime, let’s get inspired and hopefully this will help you decide which fabrics to get too! (If you haven’t ordered already)

cover

This time round it’s for ladies only. Sizes S, M&L, L+ and 2L are included. It’s a little confusing, but I will explain later with the size chart at the end of the book review.

innercover

There are patterns for tops, pants, skirts, dresses, pantsuit, hats, coats and shirts. Well practically everything. It is the Sewing Closet book after all!

contents1

The projects are grouped based on difficulty of making – as indicated by the approximate number of hours you will need to make the garment.

A – Bias collar Tshirt
B – Bias collar Dress
C – Cocoon dress
D – Petticoat dress
E – Free Hat

contents2

F – Bias Collar Dress
G – Big Tuck Pocket Dress
H – Big Tuck Pocket dress with half sleeves
I – Tapered pants
J – Wide Pants

contents3

K – Tuck Silhouette Dress
L – Side pocket Long Skirt
M – All in one
N – Work Dress

contents4

Q – Spring Summer Staff Coat
R – Autumn Winter Staff Coat
O – Work Dress (3/4 sleeves)
P – Work Shirt

CandD

The outfits for each page are labelled below. Here is the Cocoon dress with the petticoat dress worn underneath. The main fabric on the dress is Camino in Double Gauze.

grace

Big Tuck Pocket Dress in Grace (Linen)

G+J

Dress G in Ripple (Linen)

situation

Dress K in Situation (cotton sateen)

M

M – All in One. This is basically like a pant suit. It is quite interesting and looks cool on the model. But I’m not so sure I can pull off the look myself 😛 The fabric is Situation (Linen)

buttonskirt

Other than prints, there is a range of solid color fabrics under the new range – Naomi Ito Colors. You can find many different subtrates here – Linen Cotton, Cotton Sateen, Cotton Linen Herringbone, Linen, Cotton Linen Brushed Herringbone (something like the the wool used for men’s suits). The above skirt with side buttons, is made using the solid Linen color – French Red.

rakuenskirt

One of my favourite designs – Fuccra Rakuen is released in new colors and substrates this season. Seen here is the blue linen version, made into skirt L.

shirt

Work shirt in Camino linen.

coat

Another one made using Situation linen – this is a lightweight coat for Spring/Summer.

Some pictures of the Atelier to nani IRO in Osaka. If you ever have the chance to visit and need directions, see my blog post here – Directions to Atelier to nani IRO

AteliertonaniIRO

and now for the size chart. I’ll translate the important information below to help you decide which size is best for you.

sizechart

Choosing the right size
* The attached pattern sheets are for the 4 sizes – S/M&L/L+/2L
* Some items may be grouped into 3 different sizes S/ M&L, L / 2L
or grouped into 2 sizes
– sizes S / M&L, L+, 2L
– S, M&L, L / 2L

Size table (units in cm)
Japanese Text in Left most column
Body part / Size
Height
Bust
Waist
Hip

Confusing???   I was confused too… until I looked at the pattern sheets. Basically, first find out which size you belong to, first refer to the size table (above). You will notice there are overlaps in some of the measurements for some of the sizes. My guess is that it is done this way because most people don’t fall neatly into a particular size, so the table gives you a better idea if you should choose one size up or down based on all of your measurements.

The next thing to note is that, not all the pattern sheets come in the 4 sizes listed above in the table. Certain items have patterns that come in 2 sizes and some in 3 sizes – which means that some of the sizes are grouped into one pattern sheet.

For example, the first pattern A – bias neck T shirt, comes with 2 pattern sizes only. Sizes S, M&L and L+ make use of the smaller pattern, and size 2L uses the larger pattern.
The second example is more straightforward F- Bias neck dress – this comes in 4 separate sizes patterns, S / M&L / L+ / 2L.
The 3rd example is N – Work Dress. This comes in 3 sizes. S / M&L, L+ / 2L

The easiest way to tell is from the material list in the how-to-make pages. If there are 2 sets of numbers, there are 2 pattern sizes, and so on…  The other way is to look at the sizes separated by the backslashes. I don’t know why it has to be so confusing… but that’s just the way it was written.

There are many more garments in the book that I could not post here, so have a look at the book flip-through video!

ATELIER to nani IRO sewing closet / Ito Naomi

Title : Atelier to nani IRO’s Sewing Closet
Author : Naomi Ito
ISBN Number : 978-4579116270

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