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Translations and Help with Patterns

Translations and Help with Patterns

Translation Request – Check and Stripe

September 14, 2018

Today’s translation request is from this book


For No. 2 Round collar Dress (which is also the dress featured on the cover)

I have translated the written instructions for Megan, instead of overlaying the text on the images because this pattern was 3 pages long and the words are tiny!

Here goes!

Completed dimensions (from left S/M/L sizes)
Length – 93.5 / 94.5 / 95.5cm
Back neck to cuff (along shoulder and down arm) length – 57.5/58.5/60cm

Materials *from left S/M/L sizes
Outer fabric
– p.10 C&S soft linen (navy purple)
– p.11 C&S half linen
– p.46 Linen Flannel

Fusible interfacing – 50x30cm
Stay tape – 1.5cm wide 34cm
Button – 1.1cm diameter x 3

Cutting layout
* Seam allowance is 1cm unless specified
* Cut bias according to dimensions in diagram
* dark grey shaded areas indicate area where stay tape should be applied
* light grey shaded areas indicate area where fusible interfacing should be applied

How to make
1. Attach back facing
1.1 Apply fusible interfacing to back facing
1.2 Fold in the outer curve of the seam allowance, and stitch.
(note on diagram – for curved portion, use a basting stitch to help pull it to a circular shape)
1.3 Align back bodice and back facing pieces, right sides facing, sew along the opening
(notes on diagram – use a narrow stitch length)

2. Sewing the shoulder seams
2.1 Zig-zag/serge the shoulder seams of each piece separately
2.2 With right sides facing, sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulder seam
2.3 Open up the seam allowance (iron)

3. Making the collar
3.1 Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the outer collar, then, with right sides facing sew the collar pieces together along the outer circumference (except the neckline). Repeat for the other collar piece.
3.2 Trim the seam allowance to 0.5
3.3 Clip curves in the seam allowance, fold in the seam allowance, then turn right side out.

4. Attaching the collar
4.1 Make the bias (according to diagram)
4.2 Align the collar to the neckline, with the collar sandwiched between the back facing and bodice. baste in place
4.3 Align the creased line of the bias to the finished neckline, sew with a 1cm allowance from the neckline.
4.4 Cut the back opening (refer the diagram)
4.5 Trim the seam allowance of the neckline down to 0.6cm , clip curves in the seam allowance.
4.6 Turn the back facing right side out, and stitch down the facing piece (according to the diagram)
4.7 Foldover the bias to the wrong side of the garment (thereby enclosing the neckline) and stitch down (refer to diagram)

5. Attaching the side pockets
5.1 Apply stay tape to the wrong side of the front bodice pocket, zig-zag/serge along the seam allowance from sleeve down to the side (refer to point 1 on diagram step 6)
5.2 Zig-zag/serge the side seam allowance of the pocket piece
5.3 Attach the pocket pieces to the front and back bodice respectively (note the different seam allowances on the diagram). The front pocket should be sewn 0.3cm away from the finished line (side seam)
5.4 Flip the pockets to the right side and iron.

6. Sewing the underarm, side and around the pocket circumference
6.1 Sew the underarm – side seam, ending at the pocket opening, avoid sewing over the pocket pieces.
6.2 Open up the seam allowance (iron)
6.3 Top stitch the pocket opening from the right side (front only)
6.4 Sew around the circumference of the pocket fabric twice, then zig-zag/serge both seam allowances of the pocket pieces together.
6.5 For the back pocket, sew it down to the back seam allowance only (and not through the main fabric) to keep in place.
6.6 Sew the side seam allowances of the pocket fabric with a catch stitch (herringbone stitch) refer to pg 75 step 2 point 6
6.7 Lay the pocket towards the front bodice and stitch 2 or 3 times on the top and bottom edge of the pocket

7. Sewing the cuffs
7.1 Sew the cuff opening with a double fold hem
7.2 Sew a tuck 2cm from the shoulder (upper arm) seam
7.3 whip stitch to close the opening of the tuck

8. Finish the hem with a double fold hem

9. Attach the button to the back opening, make the loop (refer to p.83)

CHECK & STRIPE Tezukuri no Simple Style / CHECK & STRIPE
buy now from (affiliate link)

Title : Check & Stripe Handmade Simple Style
CHECK & STRIPE てづくりのシンプル スタイル
ISBN : 978-4-418-14425-9
Publisher : 世界文化社

Translations and Help with Patterns

Translation Request – Dress K from Atelier to nani IRO’s Sewing Closet

May 15, 2018

Today’s translation request is from Brandi for Dress K from the book Atelier to nani IRO’s Sewing Closet.

I actually made the same in a blouse version, which is just a shorter version. So I’m pretty familiar with it.


This was the part of the pattern instructions that she needed help with. Basically, you just have to sew the tucks according to the marking, then iron the tucks so that they are all in the direction of the side of the garment. The red circle shows what it should look like from the front.


I hope this helps those of you who are working on this top/dress. Let me know below if you have any questions!

Translations and Help with Patterns

Translation Request – Atelier to nani IRO Sewing Closet shirt P

March 30, 2018

I was asked to translate the instructions for gathering of the collar in this shirt P, found in the latest nani IRO sewing book. There are 3 variations of this pattern – 2 of them are dresses (N and O)  and the last one is this shirt P. All of them have similar instructions for steps 1-6, so I am translating them here for you.


These translated instructions are for steps 1-6 found on pages 79-80 of the book Atelier to nani IRO’s Sewing Closet.

ATELIER to nani IRO sewing closet / Ito Naomi

button_buy-now-from-cdjapan (1)(affiliate link)

  1. Make Breast Pocket and Attach
    1. Using thicker paper/cardboard, make a template of the breast pocket in the finished dimensions (i.e. without seam allowance).
    2. Double fold the pocket seam allowance (on the side indicated in the diagram) and stitch.
    3. Sew long stitches along the curved edge of the pocket
    4. Place pocket template on wrong side of fabric. Fold in the seam allowance and press. For curved edge, use the long stitches to pull the curved hem into shape and press.
    5. Place pocket on marked position on Front bodice and attach (refer to diagram for stitch lines)
  1. Make Tabs
    1. Place the two tab pieces, right sides facing, sew around the outer edge except for the top edge.
    2. Trim seam allowances to 0.5cm
    3. Turn out to the right side, and top stitch
    4. Make button hole on tab
  1. Make button placket and attach tabs
    1. At the bottom edge of the button placket position on the front bodice, stitch gathering (long stitches)
    2. Gather the bottom edge to the desired length (3cm in diagram)
    3. Fold and press button placket pieces according to the series of diagram (if you see the characted わ – that indicates a fold, 表 indicates right side of fabric, 裏 indicates wrong side of fabric)
    4. With right sides facing, attach each of the button plackets to the bodice. (note the orientation of the piece – 上 means upper, and goes on the right side of the wearer, 下 means lower, and goes on the left side of the wearer)
    5. Wrap the lower button placket around the centre front by turn it to the back, and top stitch in place
    6. Do the same for the upper button placket.
    7. Align the ends of the slit together and sew in the tabs in between. (Refer to the diagram for how to stitch down the bottom end.
  2. Sew shoulder seams
    1. With front and back bodice pieces right sides facing, align at shoulder seam and sew.
    2. Overlock/Zig-zag stitch the seam allowances together to finish the raw edges.
    3. Iron the seam allowance towards the back
  3. Gather Neckline
    1. Sew with the longest stitch length, make two rows of gathering stitches on the front and back bodice pieces respectively, between the marked points on the pattern – ギャザー止り which means end of gathers.
    2. Using the lower threads, pull to gather to the lengths marked on the diagram.diagramcloseup
  4. Make collar and attach
    1. With the two collar pieces right sides facing, sew around the sides and top (stopping 1cm from the bottom edge) as marked in the diagram.
    2. Trim seam allowance to 0.5cm
    3. Turn the collar out to the right side and iron
    4. With the right sides of the outer collar facing the bodice, align the collar around the neckline and Keep the inner collar out of the way.
    5. Clip curves in the seam allowances
    6. Flip the Inner collar over so that the seam allowance is folded over the neckline. Top stitch from the outer side to sew down the inner collar. (refer to diagram for seam allowances)

Translations and Help with Patterns

Translation Request – Military Shirt

January 12, 2018

The following translation request is from Shi-wei who was planning to make this shirt

from this book. Click here to read the full review

Patterner Kaneko Toshio No Honkaku Men's Fuku / Kaneko Toshio / [Cho]

Pattern Pieces
1 Front bodice, 2 Back Yoke, 3 Back Bodice, 4 button placket, 5 sleeve, 6 cuffs, 7 collar stand, 8 collar, 9 shoulder tab 10 right flap 11 pocket, 12 left small flap

finished size
(from left S/M/L/LL/3L)
chest circumference
sleeve length (see below for explanation)

The 3rd character in the second column was baffling to me. Thanks to, a kanji dictionary that allows me to search by radicals easily, I found the meaning

裄 (pronounced ゆき yu-ki) –
Noun – 1. distance from the seam in the back of a kimono to the end of the sleeve
together with the word 丈 which means length, so I think it simply means sleeve length, but I’m not sure why this uses the kimono reference and not the usual term for sleeve length which is 袖丈.
I’m not sure where the seam in the back of a kimono refers to here so it may be easier to measure the sleeve length on the pattern for a better gauge.

Cotton Twill (Army Green) 110cm wide x 210/215/220/225/230cm
1.3cm diameter cat eye button x 11pcs
Fusible interfacing – 60 x 80cm
Thread for stitching buttonholes – use #30 thread for upper thread



Click on images to zoom in. The parts highlighted in yellow are the actual steps in point form and too wordy to translate, so I’ve written them below.  In the above diagram, rs refers to right side of fabric, ws refers to wrong side.

  1. Make and attach pockets
    1.1 Place right flap pieces Right sides together and sew.
    1.2 Turn out to the right side and double stitch
    1.3 Make button hole
    1.4 Finish the opening of the pocket with a double fold hem.
    1.5 Fold in seam allowance, and sew the pocket following the marked position
    1.6 Position the right flap in the marked position and sew
    1.7 Cut the seam allowance to 0.5cm
    1.8 Fold the right flap downwards and topstitch
    1.9  Follow the same steps from 1.1-1.8, but refer to the small diagram on the left for the width of the double fold hem to fold down.
    1.10 Same as steps 4 and 5
  2. Sew front edge (refer to page 70 step 2)
  3. Make back bodice, sew shoulders together
    3.1 Place back bodice sandwiched in between the outer and inner yoke pieces, sew together
    3.2 Fold yoke piece up and topstitch
    3.3 Shoulder shoulder seams of inner outer yoke piece to front bodice shoulder (edit to add – the book says to sew inner yoke but the diagram shows outer yoke, it should be outer yoke)
    3.4 Fold the seam allowance of inner yoke piece, top stitch over the first seam
  4. Make collar and attach (refer to page 13-14, except that you should refer to the diagram on pg 72 (under order of sewing) for actual topstitch width.
  5. Make sleeves
    5.1 Fold the seam allowance
    5.2 Place cuffs on the sleeve and sew together
    5.3 Turn the cuffs to the front of the sleeve, topstitch
  6. Make shoulder tabes and attach to sleeves
    6.1 Place shoulder tab pieces right sides together and sew
    6.2 Turn out to the right side and topstich
    6.3 Make button holes
    6.4 Sandwich the shoulder tab between the bodice and sleeve, right sides together, and sew.
    6.5 Finish the seam allowances of both layers by serging/overlocking/zig-zag stitch
    6.6 Topstitch on the right side
    6.7 Foldover the shoulder tabs with a 0.5cm kise (I don’t know how to translate this but I found a good pictorial reference for this term キセ here)
  7.  Sew under the sleeve and side seam (refer to page 15, but refer to diagram under order of sewing for actual topstitch width)
  8. Finish hem
  9. Make button holes, attach buttons

The pattern above is from the following book. You can read the full review here –

Book Review and Flip Through Video – Pattern maker Toshio Kaneko’s Men’s Clothes

Patterner Kaneko Toshio No Honkaku Men's Fuku / Kaneko Toshio / [Cho]

button_buy-now-from-cdjapan (1)

Title : Pattern Maker : Toshio Kaneko’s Men’s Clothes
Author : Toshio Kaneko
Publisher : Nihon-Vogue
ISBN : 9784529056397

Translations and Help with Patterns

Translation Request – Cap sleeve Blouse from Sewing Recipe

October 9, 2017

Today’s translation request is for Amy, who needed help with the Japanese sewing pattern for the Cap sleeve blouse from this book by Yoshiko Tsukiori. It is still one of my favorite reference books for all the detailed pictures of sewing techniques. Read my full book review here. Or buy it from cdJapan via the link below (aff link)

Tsukurinagara Master Suru, Sewing no Kiso. / Tsukiori Yoshiko

button_buy-now-from-cdjapan (1)

The following translation is for the Cap sleeve blouse on page 10-11.



110cm wide Polka dot print linen :
– for sizes 7-11 : 1.6m
– for sizes 13,15 : 1.8m
Interfacing (based on 90cm width) : 30cm

In the table of Completed dimensions, the Japanese terms in the table are as follows


Sewing preparation

★Attach interfacing to front and back facing pieces
★On the bottom edge of the facing pieces, Zig zag/overlock the raw edges.

Sewing procedure

  1. On the top front bodice piece, make gathers, and sew together to the bottom front bodice piece. (refer to page 24).  Zig zag/overlock the seam allowance of both pieces that have been sewn together.
  2. Sew the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice as well as the front and back facing pieces (refer to page 32). Press the seams open.
  3. On the sleeve opening edge, make a double fold hem. Gather the shoulder edge of the sleeve and attach to the bodice.
  4. Sew around the neckline of the facing to the bodice. Turn the garment right side out and topstitch around the neckline (refer to page 32)
  5. Sew the left armhole between the bodice and facing pieces. Turn right side out (refer to page 33)
  6. Sew the right armhole between the bodice and facing pieces, turn right side out (refer to pg 34)
  7. Sew the side seams of the facing and the bodice all the way through to the hem. (refer to pg 34). Zig zag/serge both layers of seam allowances together.
  8. Finish the bottom edge with a double fold hem (see page 59)
  9. Top stitch around the armholes.

Hope this helps Amy! Please share a photo of your finished blouse with us when you are done!