Quick Recap of what we covered in the last two weeks
Part 1 (6 Aug) – How to use the book, locating the patterns on the pattern sheet, tracing and adding seam allowances.
Part 2 (13 Aug) – Cutting out the fabric pieces, preparing the pieces for sewing, and completing steps 1 (front to front yoke) and 2 (make the placket)
Today we will complete Step 3 (Back to back yoke), Step 4 (Sewing front and back yokes together), Step 5 (Attaching the tie collar)
and next week we will finish up with
Part 4 (27 Aug) – Step 6 (Finish armholes), Step 7 (Pockets and side seams, Step 8 (Hemming)
Today for the back to back yoke pieces, as the length to gather is pretty long so we can’t use the same method for gathering the front sections which were much shorter. I will going to show you how to make gathers the proper way. I believe the book was written for sewists with some sewing experience hence there were no details about how to make the gathers, so just watch the video and I will show you how I do it.
Some notes about today’s sew-along. Today’s sewing is pretty straightforward just a little tedious since a lot of time is spent on making sure things are neat. Don’t be tempted to rush through the sewing even for the long straight lines like the tie collar. The patience will pay off in neat stitches!
When attaching the front and back pieces to the yoke, don’t skip the ironing of the seams because it is very important to help the seams lay flat. For the last step of topstitching you are actually stitching on the reverse side of the fabric and hoping that it will come out nicely on the right side. So pressing the seams open as well as pressing the seam allowance on the inner back yoke is very important to help the double layer yoke lie flat and match up at the seams nicely.
Notches on Tie Collar
The shoulder seams were marked on the pattern pieces and transferred to the tie collar piece before sewing. However, in the video you might have noticed that I marked out the back centre instead of matching the shoulder seams. As the tie collar is a long piece and not a fixed closure, the most important thing is for the lengths of the tie on either side to be balanced. The shoulder seams did match up nicely, but in case yours doesn’t, don’t worry too much about it as long as it is centred to the back.
List of tools and supplies used in the video (aff links)
Sewing book – A Year of Sewing with Nani Iro – https://amzn.to/3Jw73Ml
Clover Awl (I can’t find the wooden version online sorry!) – https://amzn.to/3w6UZf9
Leonis Water Erasable Marking Pens. I was surprised when I received these because they were so small but despite it’s size they have outlasted any of the other markers I’ve had and does not dry out. – https://amzn.to/3w6UZf9
Clover Wonder Clips (Mini) good for thin fabrics and smaller crafts as it won’t weight it down – https://amzn.to/3w6UZf9
Clover Wonder Clips (regular) – more sturdy for holding pieces together for example when gathering – https://amzn.to/3bx9GAP
Panasonic cordless iron (it’s a small iron and no cord so it’s perfect for crafting. The shape of the iron also means you don’t have to twist your arm to iron hard to reach places like in between buttons – https://amzn.to/3vICXj8
Olfa Small scissors (super sharp and precise for snipping curves and tiny areas) https://amzn.to/3zzCGzW
This sew-along is brought to you by Zakka Workshop. Zakka Workshop is a publisher of distinctive craft books, patterns, and kits inspired by fresh, contemporary Japanese design. They have lots of interesting craft books so do check them out at ZakkaWorkshop.com!